Ancho chile salsa
Sweet, dark and barely hot. The ancho is a dried poblano, and this is the mildest dried chile salsa there is — the one everyone at the table can eat.
Red salsas come from two different worlds — roasted tomato with fresh chile, or rehydrated dried chiles — and this is the family where dried chiles do their real work.
Sweet, dark and barely hot. The ancho is a dried poblano, and this is the mildest dried chile salsa there is — the one everyone at the table can eat.
The mild red salsa that goes with everything. Deep red, barely hot, and it keeps ten days — the one to make if you are cooking for people who do not want heat.
Dried morita chiles with roasted tomato and a little piloncillo. Real smoke from the chile itself, not from a can and not from liquid smoke.
Chiles fried nearly black in oil with garlic. Intensely hot, deeply savory, keeps a month, and a few drops go a long way.
The thick, dark red salsa in the squeeze bottle at a good taqueria. Three steps most home versions skip: fry the chiles, strain, then cook it in oil.
Compared by what actually decides it.
| Salsa | Heat | Time | Main chile | Keeps |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ancho chile salsa | 28 min | Ancho chile | 10 days refrigerated | |
| Guajillo salsa | 30 min | Guajillo chile | 10 days refrigerated | |
| Morita salsa (smoky chipotle table salsa) | 28 min | Morita chile | 10 days refrigerated | |
| Salsa negra | 24 min | Japones chile | 1 month refrigerated | |
| Taqueria red salsa | 30 min | Chile de arbol | 2 weeks refrigerated |
Tomato-based red salsas start from fresh or roasted tomatoes with fresh chile, onion and garlic. They are quick, bright and short-lived — the table salsa you make the same day.
Dried-chile red salsas start from guajillo, ancho, morita, pasilla or chile de árbol that have been toasted and soaked. They are deeper, more concentrated and, once fried, keep a week or more. Most of the recipes in this family are this kind, because that is where the technique matters.
Most dried-chile salsas combine a chile for body and color with a chile for heat.
Body and color, with little heat: guajillo, ancho, pasilla, cascabel, mulato.
Heat, with little else: chile de árbol, piquín, japonés.
Understanding which job a chile is doing is what makes substitution work. Replace a body chile with another body chile and the salsa survives; replace it with a heat chile and you get a thin, sharp liquid. The substitution chart is organized around exactly this.
Toast briefly on a dry pan — seconds, not minutes, judged by smell. Soak in hot water until pliable. Blend with roasted aromatics and some of the soaking liquid if it tastes sweet. Strain. Fry in a little hot oil.
Each step is explained, with timings per chile, in the guide to working with dried chiles.
Burnt chiles. A scorched chile turns the whole salsa bitter, and sugar, salt or acid will not bring it back. If one chile out of eight burns, throw that one out. It is the single most useful thing to know before making any salsa in this family.
Guajillo. It gives color, body and a clean fruity flavor with very little heat, and it is forgiving if your technique is not perfect yet. Once that works, add a few chiles de árbol for heat or swap in morita for smoke.
Dried chile skins, especially guajillo, puya and costeño, do not break down in a blender. Push the blended salsa through a medium sieve with the back of a spoon. It takes two minutes and gives a completely different texture.
Most are fried after blending: the purée goes into hot oil for about five minutes. That drives off water, cooks out the raw taste, darkens the color and makes the salsa keep much longer. It is the step homemade versions most often skip.